Verdigris Spree...Creating Copper Patina with Chalk Paint and Texture Medium
Verdigris Spree...
Creating Faux Copper Patina with Chalk Paint and Texture Medium
Creating Faux Copper Patina with Chalk Paint and Texture Medium
So, I went a little crazy on a bunch of home decor accents that have been accumulating around my workshop, and I decided to do a whole collection of Verdigris-styled items for my online store. I'm calling it my "Verdigris Spree." I love the look of weathered copper before it goes totally Statue of Liberty Green—that stage where it turns from bright shiny copper to dark green with hints turquoise and mint, with a little copper peeking through. I also like the look of metal as it weathers and corrodes gaining a crusty rough finish.
Verdigris (literally green/gray in French) is the green pigment that results from the oxidation of copper, brass or bronze--the natural patina created when those metals are weathered and exposed to air or seawater over time. It also can be created artificially by exposing the metals to acetic acid (the primary compound in vinegar). According to our trusted source--Wikipedia--the verdigris pigment was "originally made by hanging copper plates over vinegar in a sealed pot until a green crust formed on the copper." An even more fun way of creating Verdigris pigment during the Middle Ages--Wikipedia continues--was to attach copper strips to a wooden block with acetic acid and then bury the sealed block in dung for a week (after which the resulting patina would be scraped off for use in decor). Ewww.
Well, you don't need to do either of those things any longer to get a Verdigris look on your furniture or your decorative accents, because now you can create the look with paint and decorative powders. For this article, I will be talking about how I used several Autentico products to achieve the look. But, you can use any chalk paint brand and powder additive and get the same result.
For my home decor items, which were made either of metal and wood, I used the following products, though you can find other equivalents:
- Shiny Copper Spray Paint (i.e. Rustoleum, Krylon) This is optional for the base coat, but good for adhesion when you are painting shiny metal items.
- Autentico Vintage Chalk in Winter Night (this is a very deep green paint with a hint of dark blue).
- Autentico Vintage Chalk in Dark Turquoise
- Autentico Vintage Chalk in Menta (A mint green shade)
- Autentico Metallic Paint in Ancient Copper
- Autentico Sea Salt Fizz Powder Additive (alternative is Autentico Rough Rock Powder)
- Krylon Clear Wax Spray-on Sealer
- Four 1-inch or 2-inch old chip brushes, or new ones with bristles cut down.
- Paper Towels
- A chalk paint brush (if using chalk paint as your base coat).
There are two ways to tackle this project, and much depends on what you paint have on hand and the surface of your project. Option one is to use copper spray paint as the base coat. Option two is to use the Autentico Vintage Winter Night at the base coat. Both will achieve a similar result:
Step 1 - Base Coat:
Option 1: I decided to painted all of my pieces (some most metal and some wood) with the copper spray paint. Spray paints are oil based and thus adhere to practically everything. Some of my pieces are metal and have a slick finish, so the spray paint will give the piece some "key" for the chalk paint to grip. I also had a partially empty can on hand in the workshop that I wanted to use up. When using the copper spray paint as the base, you will use less of the Autentico Vintage Chalk Winter Night, which you will dry brush on.
Option 2: You also can paint your items in a solid base coat of the Autentico Vintage Winter Night, on which you then will dry brush the Autentico Metallic Ancient Copper. The benefit here is that you are using one fewer product--though more quantity of the Winter Night. This will be fine for wood or plastic items that you can rough up a bit to give the surface a "key". But, if you are painting a shiny metal surface, adhesion could be compromised.
Step 2 - Dry Brush: Once you've decided on your base coat approach, the next step is dry brushing the alternate color onto the now dry base paint. In my case, I dry brushed Winter Night onto the copper base coat, leaving areas of copper showing. I dipped an old chewed up chip brush into the paint, and then offloaded the majority of that paint onto a folded paper towel. It may seem counter-intuitive or wasteful, but you will go back to the paper towel to grab more paint as you go. With a light wispy touch drag your brush across your solid painted piece, using a combination of long and dabbing strokes. This will give it a nice mottled look with the copper base coat peeking through. [You would do the same with the Ancient Copper on the Winter Night base]. Once you've completely offloaded the paint from the brush onto your piece, go back to the paper towel and pick up more paint. Continue until the look is pleasing to your eye--keeping in mind that you will be adding more layers of paint in the next steps. 
Step 3 - Adding Texture: This is where it gets fun. In separate bowls, mix a little bit of Autentico Sea Salt Fizz into the Winter Night, and two other turquoise/light green colored chalk paints. I used Autentico Vintage Chalk in Dark Turquoise and in Menta. You'll see that the Sea Salt Fizz will start to bubble--which is great because it creates the look of corrosion as it dries. If you don't have sea salt fizz on hand, other aggregate powder additives can work, as well. Now, with your chip brush coated first in the Winter Night mixture, add some texture in various places on your pieces. Once that is dry (about 10 minutes), coat the other chip brushes with the turquoise and mint shades and strategically dab each color onto you piece to create both texture and high points of color for an aged and weathered look. The amount you put on is, again, up to what looks good to your eye. If things get a little out of hand and you are having so much fun that you over do it with the lighter greens...then dab a bit more of the Winter Night/deep green on top to tone it down.
Step 4 - Burnishing: Now we are getting to the final touches of your masterpiece. Dip one a chip brush into the Ancient Copper and offload onto a paper towel. Lightly drag it over the high points you created with the texture. This will give it a burnished/metallic highlighted look. This can also help if you over did it with all the other paint and covered too much of your earlier metallic coats.
Step 5 - Sealing: After you've gotten the look you want, you can apply a clear spray wax to seal and protect the paint. The layered and textured finish should wear well even without wax, especially for interior decor. However, wax will also give the colors more depth. The result is a beautiful and rich look that complements a variety of Old World European and Vintage Americana decors.
Enjoy!
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